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Two glorious days on Malolo Lailai

RASHNEEL KUMAR
Sunday, September 30, 2012

Seeing something beautiful and instantly falling in love is truly an amazing feeling.

I'm not talking about a girl here. I'm yet to experience that instant falling that people call 'love at first sight'.

No, I'm talking about a place - Malolo Lailai - where I had some sort of 'love at first sight' feeling.

This paradise glimmered like emeralds in a sea of sapphire. Serene from afar.

But once on Malolo Lailai, I realised that it was not only an enchanting and unique island, but beauty at its best, complemented by amazing grace and charm.

Beauty in terms of its tropical landscaped gardens and coconut palms surrounded with white sandy beaches, part of which fronts the beautiful sheltered lagoon.

Grace and charm in the warmth and friendliness of the people living there.

According to Wikipedia, Malolo Lailai, also known as Plantation Island, is the second largest and most developed of the Mamanuca Islands, lying 20 kilometres west of Nadi on Fiji's main island Viti Levu.

This is how my story began....

A fortnight ago, I was invited by the Musket Cove Resort and Marina to be part of, and of course report on, the 29th Fiji Regatta Week - a week of fun with various land and water activities.

Musket Cove is one of three heavenly resorts on Malolo Lailai. The other two are Plantation Island and Lomani Island Resort.

To get to Malolo Lailai, I had to catch a ferry from Port Denarau, or for those with fat wallets, an awesome ride via helicopter and sea plane is also available.

Port Denarau, maybe, for many of you, like me, who go to this place for the very first time, will notice that it's just a class of its own.

It is the gateway to exploring the sun drenched tropical isles of Fiji's West Coast - to the Yasawas and Mamanucas.

Ken, our Fiji Times West office manager, sensed I was new to the place as I kept gazing with amazement as we drove through the main entrance along the beautifully structured houses and hotels.

I woke up from the dream (of owning a flat there) when Ken told me the jaw dropping price to acquire a piece of land on Denarau - somewhere along a quarter million dollars!

But I wouldn't mind if I had that kind of cash, all precious things come with a price and Denarau is no exception.

I left Port Denarau Marina in the evening on the vessel Malolo Cat, and after a pleasant 50-minute ride, which I didn't even notice had passed - because I kept admiring the beautiful sunset and scenery -we reached Malolo Lailai.

First stop was Plantation Island Resort, which is situated at the tip of Malolo Lailai, and further on, Musket Cove.

The bright coloured lights from these resorts gleamed when reflecting on the calm sea giving off that that picture perfect scene.

The opening ceremony of the Fiji Regatta Week was going on when I reached Musket Cove so I didn't have much choice but to leave my stuff at reception, and ride in one of those battery operated golf carts to the Ratu Nemani Bar, which is situated on an island of its own.

Heartfelt laughters drowned by the infectious mix of rock and soothing evening classics from Kulture Band immediately made me feel part of the 'strangers' at this bar.

I stayed on the island for two nights in my allocated Bure, indulged in delicious local cuisine and in that short period, I probably had the most amazing time of my life.

During my chat with Musket Cove general manager, Olivia Mavoa and some resort staff on the day of my departure, I learnt that Malolo Lailai in the early 1960s, was bought by the late Richard Dick Smith, Regge Raffe and Sir Ian MacFarlane.

In the early 1970s, they were said to have parted ways to develop their own part of the island.

Dick Smith built Musket Cove and opened it on October 3, 1975 with twelve bures.

Today, the locally owned resort has 55 traditional-style thatched bures added to their 'local taste' of hospitality provided by over 100 friendly staff on the island.

The resort's restaurant is called Dick's Place in honour of Mr Smith who died aged 81, in July this year.

Mr Raffe opened Plantation Village Resort, now Plantation Island Resort, and in the late 2000s, he added Lomani Resort.

In 2000, Mr MacFarlane sold his part of the island to the other two partners, which is now used for organic farming and the continuation of the coconut plantation. Musket Cove owns approximately 100 acres of this farmland and uses it to supply the resorts with the fresh vegetables and fruits.

David Anise, who is the farm manager, said they also supply the people living on the island and the neighbouring resorts when there is surplus.

What makes our product highly desirable is its source. It comes from organic farming where we don't use any fertilisers or chemicals to aid with its growing, Mr Anise said.

On my second evening, while wandering along the beach, I met a resort staff who called himself Dels.

After a fun game of beach volleyball with other resort staff and a couple of tourists, the Tailevu man shared a bit about his life on the island.

I save a lot (of money) on this job. I get to go to the mainland after almost two months and all the time while on the island, I don't have much to spend on, he said.

I regard this as the best job because I get to meet so many people from different parts of the world. I make lots of friends, he added.

I also managed a trip to Beachcomber Island, which is almost an hour's ride by boat.

Beachcomber Island - where the Pirates Day of the Fiji Regatta Week took place - is circled with white sandy beaches, and certainly a dream island which many referred to it, as.

I reckoned this one to be a precious part of the paradise, and truly a place hard to leave once there.

All I can say is, God Bless the soul of the late Mr Dick Smith, who conceived such a picturesque island concept and the event.

He left a legacy, setting up an amazing event, where I realised competition is just an excuse. It's really all about enjoying and having fun!

On the way back from Malolo Lailai, I tried to digest all that I had exerienced in the last two days.

It felt like a dream and I tried my best to keep sleeping, but like every dream that comes to an end, mine was short and sweet.

Back in Suva, a friend smartly offered: You've gone super tanned bro!

Well, my dark skin certainly got scorched in the heat, but tanned? Nah, I sensed a bit of jealousy in that comment.

I didn't have much choice, so I took that as a compliment.

I just told myself, tanned like black, afterall, is beautiful.